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Prehistoric Rock-art Site of the Coa Valley: What you need to know

Believed to be “the biggest in the world and most important open-air Paleolithic site in Europe,” the Coa Valley rock art archaeology extends to Siega Verde in Spain spanning 50 miles. Located near Villa Nova de Foz Coa, it is home to thousands of carvings and engravings of animals such as horses, goats, sheep, bison and others which were believed to roam the area. Some of the drawings are said to resemble the ones in Canada.

In 1995 during a dam construction planning the workers discovered the paintings and carvings on the rocks. As they found more engravings, they stopped the work and invited archaeologists to study the engravings. When the archaeologist who was studying the site confirmed the age of the rock arts dating back to thousands of years ago, he reported it to the press. However, despite the irreparable damage it would cause, Energias de Portugal, a national energy provider responsible for the project, tried to disprove the age so that they could carry on with the dam construction.

As the public was made aware, they petitioned UNESCO to declare the site a heritage to protect the rock carvings. Later in the 1995 election, a new government was installed and the new prime minister stopped the dam project.

What you need to know about the Prehistoric Rock art site in Coa Valley

I learned about the archaelogical site when I went to Portugal as an English-teaching nanny on trial. Checking TripAdvisor on places of interest nearby, I was allured by the idea of getting lost in the biggest open-air rock arts.

1. There is NO direct transport so plan ahead, go as a group or with a car.

For €10, I took the Comboios de Portugal train from Paredes, 3 stations away from Porto Sao Bento to Pocinho, the final stop. It was a 2-hour ride snaking along the scenic Douro River stopping at all 31 stations. Arriving at Pocinho, I took a taxi to the Villa Nova De Foz Coa for €25. There was a bus which ran every 2-3 hours but I missed it by a few minutes.

From the town of Villa Nova de Foz Coa I hired a taxi for €3 to the Museo de Fundacao do Coa. Here I got a preliminary information about the rock arts. It contained artifacts and modern technologies showcasing the facts, history and developments about the archaeological sites. FREE entry.

2. Book a ticket for the guided tour – you can’t go on your own

From the museum I booked a guided tour for €10. All the staff spoke proper English.

Alternatively, you can ring 279 768 260 for a reservation.

The road to the archaeological site is not open to anyone but the tour guides who had to undergo a training in driving the precarious terrain.

3. The museum does not provide transport to the archaeological site

From Villa Nova de Foz Coa, I took a cab to Castelo Melhor for around €6. FYI, all the taxis were metered.

4. Just a small part of the site is open to the public

Although it’s the biggest open-air paleolithic site, only a small portion is actually open for public viewing.

5. The afternoon tours are shorter than the morning tours.

Since I spent the whole morning travelling, I took the afternoon tour and according to the tour guide the morning tours were done on a separate site which had more rock arts.

6. Go as a group or with a car.

All together I would have spent €83, €68 for the transportation alone €10 for guided tour and €5 for my lunch plus few more euros for the souvenirs. Luckily, the couple who went to the tour were heading near Pinhao and they gave me a lift all the way to the train station. That saved me €30.

It’s a bit costly to go solo and for the limited activity, I won’t go there again on my own.

The Prehistoric Rock-art Tour

The guided tour starts at Castelo Melhor, a village about 5-6 miles from the town. The rugged path leading to the archaeological site could only accommodate one car at a time. The tour schedules were well coordinated and trips were spread apart.

coa-valley-rock-art

There were only 4 of us in the tour including the guide who was well-versed in English. Showing us with super imposed images of the carvings, she explained how to trace the outline of the images etched on the rocks. With untrained eyes, it would have been difficult, if not impossible, to visualize the whole picture since most of them were carved on top of each other.

coa-valley-rock-art-2

In the image above, the guide was scaling the size of the biggest image on the slab. It was a picture of a horse and the only one of its size. Because of the hardness of the surface, experts believe the artists spent days etching the images. Since they didn’t have any distractions like we do have now, they had all the time to undertake such activities.

coa-valley-rock-art-1

In the afternoon tour the sun was right behind us which was probably why they had a different place in the morning. If I had enough time I would have stayed overnight in Foz Coa to do the morning one as well.

7. Make it as a side trip. Maximise your experience.

My mistake was making it as the major purpose of the trip. Retrospectively, it wasn’t worth all the time and effort. The tour was only 1.5 hours. My total travel time was around 7-8 hours. If I knew the nature of the trip, I would have spent 2 days there to make the fullest use of my time.

So, whether you are going solo or with a group, I recommend spending the night in Foz Coa to maximise your experience.

Take the morning and afternoon tours then visit the castle by the assembly point. It’s a 5 minute ascent on a cobbled path. The castle sits on a hill overlooking the valleys around. It’s a ruined castle with a caged dog as a guard.

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{ 8 comments… add one }
  • JP Licudan November 30, 2016, 2:35 pm

    I love seeing off the beaten path destinations. Will definitely check this out when I go to Spain. Thanks for sharing!
    JP Licudan recently posted…Zakynthos – As Seen From Descendants of the SunMy Profile

  • Karla at GlobalETA November 29, 2016, 2:42 am

    I just visited Twyfelfontein in Namibia where there are hundreds of prehistoric carvings and I loved it. Coa Valley would be right up my alley – thanks for all of the great tips!

  • Diana - MVMT Blog November 28, 2016, 10:20 pm

    Good to know you have to go with a tour because knowing me, I would’ve tried to go on my own and obviously failed. It sounds like a tour guide is a lot of help here too since I would have no idea what any of the carvings/art signify. Would love to visit there one day.

  • Lala November 28, 2016, 8:51 am

    Seems like an interesting place – and one that I’ve never heard of 🙂

  • Gokul Raj November 28, 2016, 5:39 am

    Rock arts are always amazing. It is great to see that our ancestors left their creativity behind for us to explore.
    Gokul Raj recently posted…Old Goa – Away from Rave Parties and BeachesMy Profile

  • Nancy November 28, 2016, 5:17 am

    Would love to do this sometime. Amazing that it took until 1995 to discover this find but what a find and its huge! Even though they only have tours in the morning or afternoon it looks like a place you would love to spend all day at.
    Nancy recently posted…Comment on 12 Must See Sights in Northern Sicily by Punita MalhotraMy Profile

  • Sarah November 28, 2016, 3:42 am

    Very cool. I love rock art. Glad they offer tours, as it can be hard to see the rock art with out a trained eye. Thanks for the guide!
    Sarah recently posted…A beautiful holiday tree lighting at the Fairmont Sonoma Mission InnMy Profile

  • Vyjay November 28, 2016, 12:57 am

    I am really fascinated by cave and rock paintings, in India, we have the famed Ajanta and Ellora caves among many others. But the Coa valley rock art is prehistoric, which makes it all the more fascinating. You have given some great pointers when planning a visit there which would be of immense value.
    Vyjay recently posted…How We Spent Our 2 Days in KodaikanalMy Profile

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